I have a friend who is a Japan and China scholar. (What an over-achieving combination, eh?) One time she invited us to her home and served what she called chicken teriyaki ? it was cooked in a skillet, just the way she learned to do it in Japan, she said. I was incredulous because it wasn?t like the versions I?d eaten at Japanese restaurants in the United States. Those renditions, which I considered definitive, where grilled and brushed with a sticky sweet brown sauce. I shelved that experience for years until last week, when I suddenly had a hankering for chicken teriyaki. Maybe it was because I?d made the batch of pickled ginger that I had Japanese food on my mind, which wandered to what...
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