Just For The Munchies

post from Cook. Eat. Love. on 16 May 2012 04:22:23 PM. © Cook. Eat. Love.

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Dirt Candy

post from Shelbs & Cheese on 16 May 2012 04:21:29 PM. © Shelbs & Cheese

Dirt Candy has been on The List for ages, pretty much since it opened in 2008(9?), in fact. I've been clamoring to get a taste of Amanda Cohen's purportedly revolutionary treatment of vegetables (or, as she calls them, "dirt candy"). Reservations are not easy to come by in the 20 seat space, and typically require booking a month in advance. That's why, when Mackenna and I were looking for a dinner spot a mere two days out, I jumped at the 9:30 pm Friday reservation as quickly as I could.

And the subterranean garden-apartment space is, indeed, teeny. There are 12-14 seats at tables against the banquette and another six lined against the opposite wall, with just enough room between them for the servers to pass through.

The menu is likewise small, offering up but a mere 4-5 choices for each course. This theoretically should make the task of ordering far simpler for an indecisive diner like me. But without the crutch of "I feel like fish tonight," and with a list of entrees that all sounded delicious and different, I faced some difficulties. Nothing a little chat with our server couldn't fix.

Though I sound like a broken record, I apologize for the poor picture quality. The light was very, very low. Also, I am a terrible photographer.

Jalapeno Hush Puppies with Maple ButterWe started with the jalapeno hush puppies, which arrived piping hot with a side of softened maple butter. The hush puppies were a pinnacle of the form, the crispy exterior giving way to a steamy, fluffy corn interior. The jalapeno provided a lingering heat, and once in a while, a real punch of spice. The maple butter was, as you'd imagine, delicious; entirely unnecessary for the exterior bites and not unwelcome for the fluffy innards. The house bread also served as a canvas for the maple butter, though I preferred dipping the focaccia-like batons into the olive oil, which had been strewn with herbs.

House bread with Herbed Olive OilI've had and loved the portobello mousse before, and would have ordered it to enjoy the full restaurant treatment, but my dear friend is an avowed mushroom hater (something I will never understand). It was between the red pepper soup and the carrot buns, then. Seeing as soup might be tough to share, we went with the buns.

Steamed Carrot Buns with Cucumber and Carrot Salad

I love me a good Chinese steamed bun, cha siu bao in particular, that spongy, airy dough encasing rich, sticky-sweet Chinese roast pork. The sweetness Cohen coaxed from the carrots paid homage to cha siu, but was impressive in its own right, bright with hoisin and a carrot reduction. The treatment of the roots within was inspired, as the carrots feigned meatiness. The buns were dyed various shades of orange from the juice of the different carrots used, which didn't affect the taste, but sure was adorable.

Yes, these carrot buns were delicious, but I could not keep my fork out of that little pile of awesome to the left. This, my friends, was a crispy white carrot, cucumber, ginger and sesame salad, topped with carrot halvah. Oh, never had carrot halvah, have you? I'm really sorry about that, because this was one of the more creative, no-holds-barred delicious things i have tasted in recent memory. (No, but really, I'm sorry I didn't tell you about this sooner, the carrot buns are apparently no longer on the menu.) A definitely ate more than my fair share of the salad even though we were to be going halfsies (sorry Mack).

Chard Gnocchi

Then there were the mains. Mackenna went with the chard: chard gnocchi, grilled chard, garlic granola, drunken fig jam. The gnocchi were light, if a bit on the soft side. The grilled chart crunchy, buttery, delicious. There was a thin layer of goat cheese sauce coating the bottom of the plate, which lent a lovely tang to the whole thing and perked it all up. The fig jam felt awkwardly out of place, its flavor strong and overwhelming, and not really meshing with the other elements of the dish. As it appeared as a small pile crowning the gnocchi, it was easily cast aside (and eventually eaten separately, since it was quite good in its own right).

Cucumber, Coconut Poached TofuI oscillated between the cucumber: coconut poached tofu, shiso galangal sauce, salsify and hearts of palm and the corn: stone ground grits, corn cream, pickled shiitakes, huitlacoche, tempura poached egg. Though the corn was the thing that called out to me immediately I mean, tempura poached egg, for fuck's sake; top that with pickled mushrooms and huitlacoche and I was sure I'd be there. But in the end, I went for the cucumber, since it seemed lighter and brighter than the corn, and I was getting some corn (and heaviness) via the fritters. I can't say I regret my choice, either. The tofu seemed to have been seared prior to poaching, as it had a lovely golden crust on its topside. The sauce was verdant, alive with the vague citrus notes of shiso, and kept the whole dish interesting. The crunchy fried things, also, awesome. What can I say? I love crunchy fried things.

The food at dirt candy is a wonder to behold. These are not dishes that were placed on the menu as a consolation to vegetarians, but a celebration of vegetables in their own right. They are not meant to replace meat, or to substitute for it, but to draw your attention to the merits of vegetables as their best, most interesting versions of themselves.

Dirt Candy
430 E 9th St (b/w 1st and Ave. A)
(212) 228-7732

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Study: Corn Syrup Is Hurting Your Brain

post from Blisstree » EAT on 16 May 2012 01:46:26 PM. © Blisstree » EAT

A sugary diet won't just put on pounds, it could also slow down your brain. A new study from UCLA researchers shows for the first time how a diet high in high-fructose corn syrup can hamper your ability to learn and remember information. But Omega-3s (which are pretty much goddamn magic, right?) can help counteract the effects of too much fructose, the authors say More »

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Avocado, tomato and onion salad

post from CASA Veneracion on 16 May 2012 11:16:52 AM. © CASA Veneracion

The avocado was supposed to go into sushi but I cooked all the Japanese rice we had to make oyakudon. Sam looked at the lonely avocado ruefully, suggested that we make a salad with it then she...

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Morning Links: Why You Should Take A Coffee Break
(Even If You Hate Coffee)

post from Blisstree » EAT on 16 May 2012 11:14:17 AM. © Blisstree » EAT

? 4 reasons to take an afternoon coffee break, even if you don't drink coffee (FitSugar)? Maya Angelou takes on the cause of women's health. (HuffPost Women)? Healthy and delicious: Green bean, barley, and wheatberry salad recipe. (Well & Good)? 3 better brands to quench your soda cravings. (Vital Juice)? More debate over how much weight you should be lifting (Q Blog)? Are organic oils good for your skin? (Divine Caroline)? 5 ways to customize your tennis shoes (Yahoo! Shine)... More »

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Chocolate (Chip) Chunk Cookies

post from Fun & Food Cafe on 16 May 2012 09:26:00 AM. © Fun & Food Cafe

As Summer rolls in, there are lot of potlucks and picnics planned in the calendar. And with[...]

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Florida rum balls

post from Cooking for Zo on 16 May 2012 08:21:35 AM. © Cooking for Zo

[...]

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Lobster balls and long beans stir fry

Sam likes buying those frozen seafood balls in the grocery — fish balls, squid balls, shrimp balls, prawn balls, crab balls, lobster balls… I always ask her to choose fish balls over the...

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Bob Chinns Crab House

Everyone from the suburbs of Chicago always mentions Bob Chinn’s for seafood. When I lived in Chicago, I really wanted to visit but I didn’t know how to get to Wheeling. Luckily, Ken and his family have been going since Ken was a kid and Ken’s parents took us there for dinner when we arrived [...]

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Churrascaria Plataforma Tribecas classic
caipirinha recipe

post from Savory Tv | Delicious chef recipes, videos, and culinary tips on 16 May 2012 03:12:42 AM. © Savory Tv | Delicious chef recipes, videos, and culinary tips

The refreshing caipirinha (pronunced “ky-pee-REE-nyah ) is national cocktail of Brazil, consisting traditionally of only three ingredients: cachaça, sugar, and lime. Cachaça (pronounced “ka-SHAH-suh”) is a high alcohol Brazilian spirit distilled directly from sugar cane juice. It is available unflavored and in several fruit flavors. It can be found easily in larger liquor stores, accept [...]

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